Cherry Pink Udon Chunky Knit Sweater - Pattern Guide

knitsbysimi
Sep 14, 2025
5 min read

Updated: Dec 11, 2025

Materials needed:

4 x Hobbii Udon Yarn in Black Cherry (60): Approx. 750-800g
10mm (US 15) circular needles for ribbing, 80-100cm cable
12mm (US 17) circular needles for stockinette body, 80-100cm cable
12mm (US 17) circular needles, 40cm cable
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle

Yarn information:

Brand Name: Hobbii

Content: 80% Acrylic, 20% Wool

Weight: 200 g

Length: 100 m

Yarn Weight: Super Bulky

Recommended needles: 12 mm

Knitting gauge: 8 sts × 11 rows = 4" (10 cm) stockinette

Abbreviations

BOR; beginning of round
RS; right side of the work
WS; wrong side of the work
k2tog; knit two stitches together
p2tog; purl two stitches together
ssk; slip slip knit (slip two stitches knit-wise and knit together)
sts; stitches

Information:

Size M - Relaxed Fit
This pattern includes instructions for two versions of the jumper:

A cropped version
A full-length version (illustrated in the schematic below).

Both versions follow the same overall construction method, with length adjustments noted clearly in the instructions.
Use this guide to recreate either style based on the measurements and row counts provided.
Feel free to knit the body to your preferred length before splitting for the front and back panels.

Approx. measurements of finished jumper.

Instructions:

Body (Knit in the Round).

With 10mm circular needles, cast on 86 stitches (long-tail cast on recommended)
Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a BOR marker at the join.
Work 1x1 ribbing (k1, p1) for 7 cm (approx. 6 rows)
Switch to 12mm circular needles.
Work in stockinette stitch (knit all rounds) until the body measures:

35 cm (full) - approx. a further 28 rows.
24 cm (cropped) - approx. a further 23 rows.

Note: measure from the cast-on edge including ribbing. You can also knit to your desired length as this part will make up the body portion that sits below the armhole.

Split for front and back:

Place the first 43 stitches on a holder (front).
Work the remaining 43 stitches flat for the back.

Back Panel (Flat).

With 43 stitches, continue working in stockinette stitch (knit on RS rows, purl on WS rows).
Knit until this back panel measures 20 cm from the split, or until the total garment length from the cast-on edge is:

57 cm - full-length version (approx. 53 rows total)
44 cm - cropped version (approx. 42 rows total)

(This should be approximately 19 additional rows, depending on your gauge)

When the back panel reaches the desired length, bind off all stitches loosely.

Front Panel (Worked Flat, with Neckline Shaping).

With 43 stitches, work in stockinette stitch until you reach 15 cm past the split or the length from the cast-on edge is:

52 cm for the full length version (approx. 48 rows total)
39 cm for the cropped version (approx. 37 rows total)

(This should be approx. 14 rows, depending on gauge).

Shape the Neckline (centre bind-off)

On RS: Knit 15 stitches, bind off 13 centre stitches, knit remaining 15 stitches.
Place each shoulder (15 sts) on separate needles/holders.

Work shoulders separately:

Wearer’s Right Shoulder (yarn attached, begins on WS row):

WS: Purl all stitches.
RS: k2tog, knit to end - neck edge decrease (1 st)
WS: Purl all stitches.
RS: k2tog, knit to end - neck edge decrease (1 st)
Continue working in stockinette (knit RS, purl WS) until the front matches the back panel length from cast-on edge:
- 57 cm - full-length version
- 44 cm - cropped

This should be approx. a further 1 row but depending on your gauge, you may already be at the correct length when the shaping finishes.

Bind off loosely

Wearer’s Left Shoulder (join new yarn at neckline, begins on WS row):

WS: Purl all stitches.
RS: Knit to last 2 stitches, ssk - neck edge decrease (1 st)
WS: Purl all stitches.
RS: Knit to last 2 stitches, ssk - neck edge decrease (1 st)
Continue working in stockinette (knit RS, purl WS) until the front matches the back panel length from cast-on edge:
- 57 cm - full-length version
- 44 cm - cropped

This should be approx. a further 1 row but depending on your gauge, you may already be at the correct length when the shaping finishes.

Bind off loosely

Shoulder Seams.

Join shoulder with mattress stitch, or preferred method.

How to join shoulder using invisible seam

Sleeves (Top-Down in the Round, 44 sts pickup).

Using 12mm circular needles (40 cm cable), begin picking up stitches at the bottom of the armhole (this ensures all decreases sit neatly along the underside of the sleeve, like a seam).
Pick up and knit 44 stitches evenly around the armhole.
Place a BOR marker at the pickup starting point — this marks the underarm “seam”.

Sleeve shaping (decreases 44 sts -> 30 sts):

Each decrease round is worked at the end of the 5th plain round AND at the start of the 6th round.The decrease straddles the marker because k2tog happens before the BOR marker and ssk happens immediately after.

Work plain rounds first

Rounds 1–5: Knit all rounds (plain stockinette).

Decrease Round (Round 6)

On the 6th round, work the following decreases:

Knit to 2 stitches before the BOR marker, k2tog, Slip marker, ssk

You have now decreased 2 stitches (42 sts).

Repeat the decrease sequence (step 1-2) another 6 times (7 times total):

Each repeat removes 2 stitches.

After completing all 7 decrease repeats (42 rounds; 30 sts left), continue working in stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 41 cm from the shoulder (approx. a further 3 rounds; 45 rounds total)

Cuff ribbing.

Switch to 10mm needles.
Round 1: Decrease Rib Round

You will reduce from 30 sts -> 18 sts.

Repeat the following 6 times:

k1, p1, k2tog, p2tog

Then:

Work k1, p1 to finish the round.

(Each repeat removes 2 stitches × 6 = –12 stitches total - 30 sts -> 18 sts)

Work 1×1 rib (k1, p1) until the cuff measures 7 cm (approx. a further 5 rounds; 6 rounds total)
Bind off loosely in rib pattern.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Neckline.

With 10mm needles, pick up approximately 43 stitches evenly around the neckline (including across bound-off stitches and decreases).
Work decrease round to shape ribbing:
- If starting with knit: (k1, p1, k1, p2tog) ×6, then finish remaining 13 stitches in 1x1 rib as established.
- If starting with purl: (p1, k1, p1, k2tog) ×6, then finish remaining 13 stitches in 1x1 rib as established.
- This reduces stitch count from 43 → 37 stitches.
Continue in 1x1 rib for 3-4 cm (approx. a further 3 rounds; 4 rounds total)
Bind off loosely (a stretchy bind-off is recommended - see below).

Note: If you pick up an extra stitch, work one additional round of decreases in the row (for example, 7 repeats instead of 6). If you pick up one fewer stitch, work one fewer round of decreases (for example, 5 repeats instead of 6).